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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.