Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
